They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. Pw. In fact, it is those users who seem to end up most impressed with the system. Thanks for the info Chris. They also worked with me on a sale I missed and price matched those parts. i would have been happy to answer there. My sniper is doing two thingsFirst issue, the idle is set at 800 and will idle fine, then There is a glitch in the system. So if you are trying to achieve a stoichiometric mixture in ethanol (which is achieved at an AFR of 9.0:1) then you should continue to target 14.7:1 since that is what will be displayed. You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. I will let you know what the results are. Should it not do the opposite and do this on a cold start not warm. But if you can datalog the bog you can know much more precisely what is happening. In the time it takes to add your email address you can be at the top of the heap for getting the latest information from our authority. But after sitting static idling for a little bit, the IAC goes to 100% & stays there. To be honest, you sound like an ideal candidate for Sniper ECU ignition timing control. I've been having problems with my sniper efi just shutting off. Then why don't you Get On The List for Emails Straight From Our Pro? Good luck! If they are closed, check the primaries. Price Point: $$, Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. I will a, Scott has been very helpful and informative on guiding me through the purchasing and installation of my terminator X max system. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. Car was running great initially. With everything else being right and since you can make it start by adding fuel it seems like you must have some sort of fuel pressure issue. I received from the controller manufacturer greatly understates (at best) the repeated failures of others I know personally who have tried and failed. I installed the Holley gauge you suggested in another thread at the fuel input to the TBI, and the fuel pressure is constant around 64 according to the gauge. I can tell you that when things aren't working the way you wanted them to work that nothing beats knowing for-sure that you don't have a fuel supply problem. The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. Interesting question. Explained: Holley EFI Sensors and What They Do You could go either way.. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? any advise would be appreciated. The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. I keep doing that with the same result. If you datalog the Sniper ECU and see multiple overlapping traces for the same signal, you likely have RF-induced problems. Either the Walbro pumps you are getting are not genuine (lots of forgeries being sold) or else you have something that is killing them. It is reliant on the data acquired by the included wideband oxygen sensor. In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. We are running a Sniper on my mates 355ci small block V8 & so far he is very impressed ! $107.95. Which means you either need to increase that number or increase the ramp decay time. Some have suggested mis-setting sets the idle speed at 850 RPM but I suspect it is not a fixed number but rather a delta of about 300 RPM above the target. Top 10 Sniper EFI Installation Tips from Holley's Tom Kise Running a bbc with coil - my timing is perfect. Thank you for your input. Glad to hear that things are working well! Simply use your handheld controller and go to the Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Speed screen and click on the Idle Speed Curve function. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. Please give this a try and let us know how it works! It started right up and we did your idle control fix and all is good at idle. Only in the unlikely event that your engine simply won't run well enough to drive and self-learn should you consider tweaking anything inside of the first several hundred miles. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. I recently detached the TP sensor from the side of the sniper to physically move it and it still would struggle to get to 0%. Those little 1/8 NPT gauges are pretty inexpensive and generally pretty easy to find locally.If you confirm that the pressure is indeed 90 PSI you could pull the fuel pressure regulator apart and check it. Maybe give it a half-turn before you start it and then start and tweak. Cheers Darren. If I put the truck in neutral the TPMS will raise all the way up over 2000. Also its extremely rich at idle. If your TPS has snuck up to 2% then your IAC will be at the hold position, which by default is 30%. back to trying to zero down an idle. Doesn't want to start, runs like crap. Chris, I tried adjusting my IAC up to 10deg in both directions with no change. Holly offers a very nice Analog-Style Fuel Pressure Gauge that is another option. Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. Relatively new Sniper EFI install on a '69 Mustang 302. I figured out I was going the wrong direction when I was messing with the AFR programming. Do you have a PCV on the engine? )Take a look at your AFR during the starting process. I looking for your expert opinion. IAC Calibration / Hanging rpms | Team Chevelle If the IAC is zero, and if putting your finger over the IAC port doesn't lower it, then it's not the IAC circuit. NOTE: Do not attempt to set the target idle speed and IAC position until the engine is above 160F! I presume your idle speed table doesn't increase at 200 degrees? I will be at a red light trying to brake against the engine. Take it a step at a time. To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. Free ground shipping regardless of order size! Nice to meet you. As you see above, the Sniper is going to dump in a maximum amount of fuel at zero TPS, begins to remove acceleration enrichment at 60 percent TPS, and then removes all acceleration enrichment correction at 100% TPS. If it is not a problem with the Sniper EFI System itself then it could be an issue with some sort of harmonic involving the fuel pump. Only show this user . A good example of why it's so important to run a good pre filter in the fuel line. We have never had that problem with any of the units that we have shipped. If no air is passing (and the idle doesn't drop) then your IAC is working. First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. I will confirm TDC with balancer but I have had balancer off and timed it before and after with same results. But as you see from the recent revision I did above you seem to be having a fixable issue. If either of these is not the case it must be remedied.After you have done this then you might want to involve Holley Tech Support about the TPS, or it may be easier/faster just to visit the local auto parts store and pick up a new TPS and install it. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. I have seen a couple of videos on you tube of the same issue but they don't seem to have found the cure.I hope it is not a computer problem as I have already replaced the entire system because of another problem. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. In this short video you learn to replace the IAC. It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. Thanks so much for reading! This can cause the engine to run rough and may even lead to engine damage. That disappears as soon as the throttle is pressed and then you immediately revert to your timing table.You can certainly use the compressor to initate the IAC Kick, but remember that this is just a temporary idle boost to ensure that the engine doesn't die when the AC is first turned on. With select intake manifolds, the distributor housing and IAC valve on the back of the Sniper EFI throttle body are fighting for the same . Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. Possibly cap, rotor, coil? If you feel you have no other choice but to run a Sniper and stand-alone controller then you can give this a try. But you've got to find where air is getting into your engine.The reason it's going up as high as 2400 RPM is because once you press the throttle beyond 1% the IAC opens to the park position. Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. Then Friday night as I was driving home, the car started acting up. Your second problem should be a bit more concerning. My issue is that when Im in stop and go traffic, I can let off the clutch and the engine revs and doesnt quite want to come back to idle. Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. I had a customer recently with a high idle problem that he eventually traced to pad plug on one of the vacuum ports. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. Don't make any changes more than about 10% and keep the same basic shape as the original (High/flat below 20 degrees, sloped downward up to 180 degress, and then flat again above that.) However, I have never found that to be the case. Its rare that you find someone that genuinely wants to help and see something work good, the information I have received from this page and Chris himself is top notch.1969 Dart GT 340 with a Holley Sniper, I purchased the Holley sniper from jegs wish I knew you sold them put on my truck got the IAC set haven't checked the -40 idle setting yet my problem is my headers are glowing red called Holley I think I got the worst person seemed to care less Afr is set at 12.8 for idle only thing I have changed I don't smell any fumes at idle someone said I could change the coolant temp enrichment but I don't know if it is rich or lean I figured since no smell it is lean any ideas would be appreciated thanks i have a fuel psi gauge reads 60 psi don't wanna melt my motor did not glow with a carburetor. I appreciate the help youve given to everyone as it continually helps me! Plus, you can email that file to me and I can be of more help. I am extremely suspect of what you were told about the Sniper ECU monitoring fuel pressure, for several reasons. We are using Target AFR of 9.0: 1, Fuel Base approximately 40% higher. That initial rev is going to be determined by your IAC Park Position. If you go too low then it may stumble or even stall when coming off of throttle. I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) No power at the programmer and no fuel pump running. When I finished the install on my C10, I set it as follows: 13.1 at idle, 14.2 at cruise, and 12.9 at WOT. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. :-). If not then I think you are going to find that this will solve much of your problem. Price Point: $, Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. Installed sniper on 65 galaxie. Can the return line be an issue?So far this sounds like an ideal setup.>I have had 2 faulty gpa-4 255 walbro pumps go bad. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. When I cover it with my hands, it gets quieter. Once you have done this the challenge is to create a datalog that includes the ":snap" you describe. Super helpful and knowledgeable. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even I'm running a 408 sbc. MAP Sensor. It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. It'll start & run till it's warm, then when I try setting the IAC every time, I try getting it between the 2 & 8% it quits. Target AFR, A / F = 13.5 Holley Sniper IAC | Chevy Nova Forum Then, the next time I cranked it, the idle went high and won't come down!" To finish, I rather tightly twisted the TPS signal and ground wires all the way from the controller to the Sniper TPS and very carefully routed them away from sources of RFI. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. If I put the truck in park it comes down to idle. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. Have you checked your fuel filter and made sure it's not plugged?If both of these are okay you're going to have to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure while under load. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. That is the IAC hold position. If you find that adding 5-10 degrees of advance helps then it's time to do reconfirm TDC. Shut it off and immediately restarted and idle was now 880 with IAC at 8.If this is a vacuum leak I can't figure out what would cause it to go away immediately after shutting down the car and restarting. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. Fuel Prime Multiplier is primarily a benefit to throttle-body based EFI systems. It has a lightweight centrifugal spring kit installed so I reach total timing around 2500 rpm. The symptoms I had was a low cold start idle and going lean coming to a stop. Do I need to try taping up the IAC port and setting the idle off the idle screw? Sniper EFI - Holley You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. The noise is definitely coming OUT of the throttle body. It is simply for the benefit of the user. If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you. The warmer the motor, the higher the idle will be at this point. You're going to have to clean up the wiring in your engine compartment, In particular, look for spark plug wires that might be running near your throttle position sensor. Sniper EFI Tuning & Tech. In addition to avoiding this particular problem, the total solution is much better. I know this is old, but I bought and installed a Sniper kit in 9/18. After the start process, If the idle speed is higher than the target idle then the IAC should begin closing as long as the TPS is below 2%. Holley sniper, bogging/ losing power "NOW FIXED" Coming home from work today it was much warmer and took a little longer due to traffic. Overview. Thanks for the great question! Worst case you'll have a spare on hand, and if the TPS is faulty you will have solved the mystery. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. The fix? Now, 1% on the TPS isn't a problem, but when it goes to 2% (which is inevitable if you have RFI moving it to 1%) then the IAC is going to go to it's hold position (30% by default) and the engine is going to rev up. So something is triggering the ECU to be in Open Loop. Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. It really takes a lot of throttle tip-ins before you get anywhere near "learned" in this part of the fuel map.Based on your description, it sounds like you have a lean stumble. Using the handheld, navigate to Tuning > Basic > Basic Idle and ensure your target idle speed is set to the RPM you desire. My Sniper is 99% great! Hello Chris. What can I do? :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. Hey Chris Well, it sounds to me like your Sniper is doing its best to reduce your idle. First, let me congratulate you on your patience in letting the system learn. Covered the IAC port and set idle for 850 ish. Member List; Calendar; Forum; Holley EFI; Sniper EFI; If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. Chris---I am contemplating replacing my Holley 750 on my new low vacuum 600 HP 496 with the Holley Sniper FI system. You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. I have adjusted many settings and eventually mess it up and go back to the original map. Of the two options, I generally recommend the self-learn. Thank you for any advice. Ensure there isn't a vacuum leak causing the IAC Position to drop to 0%. Also when ac kicks on it will idle down and stall. This curve runs fom -40 degrees to 260 degrees, and gradually reduces the RPM along that range. When the lambda is 1.0, the displayed AFR is 14.7;1 REGARDLESS OF THE FUEL. Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. Both Sniper and trans controller grounds were direct to the battery ground, as they should be. It does this with the engine off. Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. Holley Sniper IAC Problem 04-26-2018, 11:30 AM Hello. 680-700.I can't find any reason other than it looses where it is in the firmware with This page was generated at 12:25 AM. Then follow all of the instructions above, including confirming the idle speed curve setting at -40 degress as well as following my 10-step process for setting the idle. If you patiently adjust this over the course of days you will get it just right.Again, glad this is working for you and look forward to a good report in the future! It is always best to get the base map as close as possible before adding acceleration enrichment. The hold position is part of the response that keeps the car from dying when you come off the throttle. The data that you provide shows that you have at least two problems. you have it set. If the vendor from whom you bought the system is coming up blank on ideas then don't hesitate to contact Holley's outstanding tech support department directly at 866-464-6553. Your AFR is pegged lean. When I drive with warm engine the IAC is at 30% when pushing gas, but shouldn't it be at 0%? If As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. There are two ways to address this--you can let the system learn or you can manually adjust the acceleration enrichment. It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. So I have been doing the slow take offs and thinking that it would learn its way out. In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. Nothing against Holley's method but I need to keep things simple and I do that by eliminating the effect of the IAC entirely while getting the idle speed adjusted. I recommend confirming there is no throttle linkage issue first. Hello Chris. the issue Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. Last night I tried setting the IAC and had the same problems after it's warmed up. Physially manipulating the linkage by hand will generally reveal if you have a sticking linkage that is preventing the TPS from returning from zero. Note too that the larger the throttle stab, the more brief the time in that cell and the more gradual the change.Here's what I recommend: Get somewhere where you can repeatedly stop and go. it seems to ramp to 60 psi on the initial prime, but as soon as the motor start the psi spikes.I guess a workaround would be an inline return/filter regulator? The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. I guess we can't have everything. The Sniper ECU can use the timing to help maintain the idle speed and that will definitely be useful in that transition from Park/Neutral to Drive.If you don't have ECU-controlled timing, or if you do and it's not fully compensating, it may be necessary to increase your target idle slightly. I used the Casper's Electronics 108103 splitter and carefully soldered my connections. I followed the instructions and set the IAC to 2-9% when warm with idle at 850 RPM. No, the idle speed curve setting isn't something that you normally worry about--and especially not down at minus 40 degrees farenheit. And yes, monitoring the fuel pressure is the right answer. It will learn the fueling eventually either way, it's just that one might get you there a little faster.If the idle is fine at start-up but then increases after you depress the throttle then you might need to lower your IAC Hold Position a bit. The Sniper resets the TPS to 0% each time that you key the system on. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. I've helped folks work through a number of challenges with their Sniper EFI System installations. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). I' m going to put the 3 rd new pump this coming friday. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. Part# 538-13. But before you adjust the ECU to lean the idle out, first confirm that your fuel pressure is right. But when you have it then you can look for exactly what the IAC is doing at that point, and if there is anything that might lead to this happening. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. If the regulator is working correctly and there is no restriction in the return line that should make no difference however.Sorry I didn't see this on the Holley forum. Thanks again Chris, your help has been invaluable.If anyone is considering going EFI, Chris is the man to chat with. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table The Sniper Quick-Start Manual provides the following instructions for setting the idle. Your comment doesn't imply any sort of problem that would make me give up on idle timing control. Holley Sniper How To Set The IAC (Idle Air Control) in 5 - YouTube The Sniper EFI remote IAC (Idle Air Control) and plug is designed to gain installation clearance on some Sniper EFI 2x4 installations. I don't want to go on too long here but once you know if you're trying to add or remove fuel, there are a couple of ways to go. To keep it running in gear, I have to bump the neutral idle up just over 1000 RPM. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. I set the AFR at 13.5 and all is good now. As you have noted, each time the idle goes up. No big deal, just time to re-adjust! It's all part of the adventure! Others might require 60 RPM. I think that your timing is too retarded. Jump on board now! Another suggestion is to add an extra turn to the spring built into the linkage to increase the closing force on the throttle shaft. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. I would recommend that you call first thing in the morning, as they tend to get quite busy during the day and wait times can get long. I recommend you have a look:https://www.efisystempro.com/efi-pro-hangout/holley-sniper-efi-instruction/solving-sniper-rfi-problems, I recently purchased your fixed linkage to open primaries first and the throttle linkage extender to also get a smoother pedal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JpHlS1ymBc, If this is your first visit, be sure to
Your task will be to find that. Stupid question, but where do I see if it's entering Learn mode? Hey Chris! It's called tuning. The Sniper will be controlling the timing so it will be based on a multitude of factors. However, whenever you start changing things, you can get into a chain reaction.
Revere Police Most Wanted, The Chop House Creamed Corn Recipe, Articles H
Revere Police Most Wanted, The Chop House Creamed Corn Recipe, Articles H